Under the Communist regime, Moscow’s nightlife was practically non-existent and those clubs and bars that did exist were for a privileged elite. Today, nightlife in Moscow is booming. Foreign bands, DJs and performers of all types now visit the city regularly, while the quality of the domestic scene has improved markedly. The variety of venues is similarly impressive and ranges from bars where you can see local rock bands to glitzy casinos and late-night clubs playing the latest techno music. The Russian take on modern dance music is noteworthy, as Russians like to party hard and long into the night. Venues can be packed and prices high, but it is an experience not to be missed.
ROCK VENUES
After years of being isolated from major Western pop and rock acts, Muscovites can at last get to see big-name artists in the flesh. Many of the more famous acts from abroad, as well as the best in local talent, play at clubs such as Apelsin, Tochka and Sixteen Tons. Apelsin is a fairly commercial venue with its own sushi bar and bowling alley attached. Tochka caters more to the student crowd, while Sixteen Tons favours alternative and indie music.
Among the smaller venues, Bunker, Kitaiskiy Lyotchik Djao Da, Gogol, Art Garbage and Ikra showcase less well known acts. Djao Da is good for acoustic music; Bunker, Ikra and Art Garbage are slightly larger and have a more sophisticated feel.
Major rock concerts usually take place at either Olympiiskiy Stadium or Luzhniki Stadium.
JAZZ, BLUES AND LATIN VENUES
Moscow has a vibrant jazz and blues scene, with clubs such as B2 featuring a live act most evenings. B2 is a one-stop shop for a night out and also has a pool hall, sushi bar and a disco. Other clubs worth checking out are Woodstock MKhat and Roadhouse; both put on good live music, including acts from abroad. Moscow’s best club for jazz and blues is Le Club, but it’s also the priciest. Cabana, a Brazilian bar and restaurant, is a good bet for Latin American bands and hosts lively Salsa nights, as does Che. Head to Zhisn Zemelyatin Lyudi, a friendly venue, which has live swing bands several times a week.
NIGHTCLUBS AND DISCOS
The range of clubs to be found in Moscow is now on a par with other major capital cities and new clubs open every month. As elsewhere, nothing really gets going until around 11pm. Entrance is usually cheaper or free before this time although the queues can be long. Most clubs don’t close until 4am; some are open until 6am at weekends.
Domestic preference is still for bass-heavy house music, with trance also becoming popular. For those who love more mainstream pop and disco, there are large clubs such as Zona offering a relaxed vibe and midweek student nights. Foreign DJs often perform at clubs such as Propaganda and Fabrique. Propaganda is one of the best known clubs, and plays a variety of styles from the latest electronic sounds to old school disco. Fabrique plays mostly house music. House music is blended with more up-tempo Latin beats at Karma Bar, while Kult offers more urban grooves, including drum & bass and four-to-the-floor techno.
A number of Moscow’s leading clubs, such as Na Lesnitse, XIII, A Priori and Slava, cater to Moscow’s “new-rich”, with prices and cover charges to match. Slava is located away from the centre in a large complex and is worth a visit, if only to spot the partying catwalk models and Russian gangsters.
The welcoming Doug and Marty’s Boar House and Papa Johns are more akin to low-key boozers than full-on nightclubs.
Keep in mind that many of Moscow’s clubs have an unspoken dress code. Gone are the days when simply being Western was enough to gain entry to any club and the more upmarket venues are likely to look unfavourably on anyone wearing trainers and jeans. At some of the smaller clubs, however, such as Kult, looking too neat could also result in getting turned away by the doormen.
ART CAFES
Some of the city’s more unusual clubs are the so-called “art cafes”, such as Art Garbage or Bilingua, which promote an eclectic mix of entertainment. One night there might be live music, and the next an alternative fashion show or an avant-garde film. Vodka Bar has English-language comedy nights midweek, wonderfully kitsch decor and a great bar. The bohemian FAQ Cafe is a warren of cosy rooms and features concerts on weekends. Many of tire art cafes are also good places to visit for a relaxed meal.
CASINOS
Moscow has some fantastic casinos. Visitors should exercise caution, however, as there are also numerous unsavoury ones, which are best avoided. New Russians love to gamble, and entrance fees and chip prices can be steep. Even if you don’t intend to play, it can be entertaining to visit and soak up the atmosphere. Casinos worthy of note include Shangri La, which has excellent entertainment, New York, Jazz Town and the Udarnik Casino. None are cheap, but all are safe and foreigner-friendly.