Russia’s appetite for Western goods means that Moscow now offers most of the shopping facilities of a large, modern Western city. There are supermarkets, department stores stocking imported goods and exclusive boutiques with French and Italian designer clothes and shoes for the new rich.
Moscow’s most interesting shopping districts are located within the Garden Ring. The main department stores are clustered around the city centre near Red Square, while the best souvenir and antique shops can be found along ulitsa Arbat, a charming old pedestrian street. For the more adventurous a trip to the weekend flea market at Izmaylovo Park is a must. Here it is possible to buy everything from Russian dolls and Soviet memorabilia to handmade rugs from Central Asia and antique jewellery.
OPENING HOURS
Moscow’s shops and businesses rarely open before 10am and often not until 11am. Most stay open until around 7pm. Many shops, especially old, state-run stores, close for an hour at lunchtime, either from 1pm to 2pm, or from 2pm to 3pm. Shops are usually open all day on Saturdays, and nowadays many are also open on Sundays, although often for shorter hours.
Markets generally operate from 10am to 4pm but it is necessary to go in the morning to get the best choice of goods.
HOW TO PAY
Until recently many food shops, department stores and state-run souvenir (berezhka) shops used the kassa system of payment. This involved visiting several cashier’s desks and could be confusing for the uninitiated.
Nowadays, the kassa system is pretty rare in Moscow and there are hundreds of Western-type shops of all sizes. Throughout the city there are several chain stores, for example, Sedmoi Kontinent, Kopeika, Perekrestok and Ramstor. The latter offers a huge range of products from food to clothes. There are also a few hypermarkets.
The only legal currency in Russia is the rouble and most shops will not accept other currencies. Vendors at the tourist markets may quote prices in US dollars. However, this will not guarantee a discount and visitors should bear in mind that it is illegal. Now that the rampant inflation of the early 1990s is under control there should rarely be pressure to pay in hard currency.
Western-style supermarkets and shops, as well as some up-market Russian boutiques, accept the main credit cards. Some shops still display prices in US dollars or, very occasionally, in units that have a fixed rate of exchange with roubles. If so the price will be converted into roubles, at a higher than average exchange rate, before payment is made. Paying by credit card avoids this as credit card slips are nearly always made out in US dollars.
Prices for most goods include 15% VAT. Only staples such as locally produced milk and bread are exempt. There are a few duty-free shops in the centre of Moscow and at Sheremetevo 2 airport.
DEPARTMENT STORES
The most famous department store in Russia is the State Department Store, known by its acronym, GUM. Its beautiful edifice houses three arcades of shops under a glass roof. It was built at the end of the 19th century, just before the Revolution put an end to such luxurious capitalism. During Soviet times GUM stocked the same goods as other department stores in the city and was very dingy and run-down. It has recently been renovated and now houses several top Western chains, as well as speciality shops and boutiques. Items such as cosmetics, medicines, cameras and electronic goods are all available along with clothes and household goods.
Moscow’s other large department store is TsUM, the Central Department Store. Formerly cheaper and a little shabbier than GUM, it has now been thoroughly renovated and is too expensive for most ordinary Muscovites.
Detskiy Mir (Children’s World) is the largest children’s store in Russia. It stocks toys made in Russia, model kits and sporting equipment as well as a wide range of imported toys. In the Soviet era the cavernous halls were often almost empty. Now the colourful displays of toys reflect the new affluence of Muscovites and there is even a luxury car showroom for the grown-ups.
BAZAARS AND MARKETS
Many Muscovites buy their cheese, meat, and fresh fruit and vegetables at one of a number of big produce markets dotted around the city. One of the biggest and most picturesque food markets is the Danilovskiy Market, which takes its name from the nearby Danilovskiy Monastery. The market at Metro Universitet has a wide variety of fresh produce; there is sometimes a market across the road (by the circus) in which vendors from far flung Russian regions sell produce and souvenirs. Down the road is the larger Cherkizovskiy Market which sells everything from produce to clothing. Also well worth a visit is the colourful Basmannyy Market, which is in the heart of the former Nemtskaya Sloboda (German Settlement).
Izmaylovo Market is a flea market held every weekend at Izmaylovo Park. It is a treasure trove of old and new. All the usual souvenirs are on sale, including Soviet memorabilia and painted Russian matryoshka dolls, as well as antique silver and jewellery, icons, samovars, china and glassware, fur hats, amber and some of the best Central Asian rugs in Russia. In recent years many local artists and crafts people have also set up their stalls here.
Gorbushka, an indoor market, sells a variety of electrical goods, along with DVDs and CDs.
MUSEUM SHOPS
There is a small, but excellent, souvenir shop at the Museum of Modern History. Its stock includes old Soviet posters, stamps and badges, amber and lacquer boxes. Both the Pushkin Museum of Fine Art and the Tretyakov Gallery sell a good selection of art books with English commentaries.
BARGAINING ETIQUETTE
Many market vendors come from long-established trading families and expect buyers to haggle. It may seem a daunting prospect, but bargaining down the price of an item can be extremely satisfying, although visitors are unlikely to get the better of these adept salesmen. Most vendors at souvenir markets speak enough English to bargain. Little, if any, English will be spoken at other markets, so a few Russian words will certainly come in handy.
Occasionally sales people will refuse to drop their price. Try thanking them and turning to leave, to see if they will cut the price further. Their final price, whether bargained down or not, is usually reasonable by Western standards.
BUYING ANTIQUES
It is very difficult to take any items made before 1945 out of Russia. All outgoing luggage is x-rayed by customs officials to check for precious metals, works of art, rugs and icons, and complete documentation for all these objects is required before they can be exported. Permission to export antiques and art can only be obtained from the Ministry of Culture. This process takes at least two weeks and an export tax of 50% of the ministry’s assessment of the antiques’ value will have to be paid. It is safest to restrict purchases to items less than 50 years old. However, customs inspectors at the airport may still want to see receipts and documentation that proves the age of the objects.